The hot (s)pots of Iceand
Tue May 20, 2008
By: By Al Kirk
Funky, modern…and sunny?
Between May and September, Iceland is not the cold and foreboding place that the name would suggest. This may be one of the most northerly countries in the world, and its capital may be just outside the Arctic Circle, but with summers that have 18 hours of daylight, and lots to see and do, Iceland is not a typical vacation. As a matter of fact, very little about Iceland is what a first time visitor would expect.
For instance, Iceland’s obsession with hot water.
Iceland straddles the North American and European tectonic plates which bless the region with volcanoes, geysers, and lots of geothermal activity (boiling hot water). In winter or summer, Icelanders love visiting outdoor heated pools -- which they call ‘hot pots’. As the amount of hot water from the earth’s crust is plentiful, so are large outdoor pools. Most public facilities have several hot tubs of different temperatures surrounding a large swimming pool. Reykjavik, the capital city, has 9 such pools alone.
Outdoor pools are an important part of Icelandic culture and a visit to them is a great way to relax and get to know this quirky country. In fact, it is not stretching the truth too far to suggest that because drinking is so expensive the hot pots at these pools serve the same role that pubs and bars do in the rest of Europe.
Our hotel was right next to one of the public pools and we took advantage as often as we could. Families go to the pool together. Kids hang out there after school. Older Icelanders don’t go walking around the mall -- they are too busy soaking at the neighbourhood pool with all of their friends. After a week we were on first name basis with the shriveled Icelandic regulars who attended our local hot pot.
Mind you, for non-Icelanders, the pre-soak rituals take a bit to get used to. Start by getting a ticket at the front desk as you enter. You’ll get a key to a locker and a list of rules. Take off your shoes before entering the changing area and stow all your clothing in your locker. You’ll be coming back for your swimsuit later.
Icelanders like to stay clean, and are used to communal showers and having a nice chat as 20 or 30 of their friends scrub and soap their gangly parts. Posters around the locker room explain what and how showering is to be done. The mandatory naked showers are policed and no one gets to the pool without first having a thorough scrub. You are then free to get your suit and be on your way to the pool.
Most folks start with a few laps of a larger pool (kept at a comfortable temperature in the low 30c). After a light workout, retreat to one of the several smaller pools that are kept at various temperatures and begin chatting. As time goes on, you may wish to move to a slightly warmer pot.
Many Icelanders relax poolside with a good book for an hour before repeating the whole process.
For something a little more upscale, try the Blue Lagoon, a privately-owned facility that is a few miles out of town. The milky, light blue water is full of salts and minerals that originally came out of the ground at 360C. The hot water is used to power turbines to generate electricity and a heat exchanger pumps hot water to Reykjavik for heating the city. The residual heat is used to keep the various pools at a temperature of between 40 and 32 Celsius. The adjoining saunas and waterfall make a great way to soak the day away. Mud baths, massages, facial and relaxation therapy are also available at this wonderful location. (www.bluelagoon.com)
Tip of the Week: Iceland Air has started flying direct to Toronto. I was on the maiden flight from Reykjavik to Toronto and was impressed by the comfort and service of Iceland Air’s newly refurbished 757. With leather seats and extra leg room, every seat feels like it’s in first class. Iceland Air has always had competitive prices to Europe. Next time you are thinking of a trip to England, consider stopping off for a few days in Reykjavik. Check out Icelandair.com for great introductory prices.
Have a travel tip? Need travel advice? Email Al Kirk at: thrifty-voyageur-travel@hotmail.com